Friday morning came before either of us were ready. Having spent some time in the hot tub before turning in around 1:00 am, we were now crawling out of bed after just four hours of sleep. We quickly changed out of our jim jil bang pajamas and headed to Sunrise Peak. We ascended the crater to greet a most cloudy dawn, but sunrise or no, the views were spectacular. I can never quite get over the fact that we are climbing around on volcanic craters - and the craters themselves are a sight to see, but the landscapes around them are often even more surreal and fantastic. Sunrise Peak (Seongsan Ilchulbong), sits at the end of a long, thin peninsula where it seems no mountain should be. The sides drop sharply into the ocean making you feel detached from the island.
As we sat on top we could see our next destination, Udo Island. We grabbed the bikes and zipped through Seongsan to the ferry terminal. 
As we watched the gate close in front of us I thought to myself, never would I have imagined that my father and I would be sitting on motorcycles being ferried between two islands half of the world away from Kansas. We spent a couple of hours exploring Udo, another gorgeous place that always benefits from a little sunlight. Even under the cover of clouds, the endless fields of canola flowers shown brightly. Periodic gaps in the clouds allowed us to see Udo in its full glory. White beaches, blue waters, and peaceful fields everywhere between. We stopped for lunch at a restaurant which displayed pictures of eel. 
Much to our dismay, eel was not available so we opted for the shellfish soup. It seemed that each bite required a minute of prying those sea critters from their shell, but it was all quite good. Following lunch we explored the remainder of the island. As we climbed to the high point of the island the sun started to pierce through the clouds and I experienced the Wizard of Oz effect. 
I couldn't believe the colors around me. We spent a fare amount of time on top of Udo island chatting about this and that before heading back to the ferry. Cars, pedestrians, and a motorcycles alike all piled aboard. As the only people on two wheels - excepting a bicyclist (I was a little jealous) - I felt fortunate to be able to directly access all of the treasures of Jeju without having to deal with Taxis or buses. As we floated back to shore I spotted a woman in her car who was viewing her GPS. While she was probably watching TV, I like to imagine she was watching our journey on her little digital screen.
We followed the coastal road for a bit before heading inland on the scenic 1112. Just as the highway reached the Bijarim Nutmeg Forest we took an even smaller road in search of Manjangul Cave. My friend had told us of a secret entrance to a section of the cave less traveled (and off limits). Though we found the entrance without any problems, we decided that we had enough on our plate for the day and that adventure would have to be had at a later date. After a 20 minute walk above ground and a drink of Vitamin Water, we entered the cave through the designated opening. In addition to the allure of being sneaky, reasons for exploring other branches of the cave began to steadily mount. While the informational signs were an interesting advantage, the squeals of dozens of small children bouncing between marvelous sculptures of ancient, volcanic rock were not. The path ended at a column of lava - apparently the largest of its kind in the world.
We spent the remainder of our afternoon oreum hunting. In particular we were in search of Geomunoreum and Sangumburi Crater. The highways meandered through farmlands resting at the feet of dozens of oreums. My father and I had so much time to talk while hiking that I enjoyed the solitude of the ride as I soaked in the landscape around me. We stopped along the road for a break and to discuss the possibility of being profoundly lost. With maps in hand, I went back up the road a couple of minutes to a strange theme park and found a taxi driver. Each of us exhausted our knowledge of the other's language and came to the conclusion that our current location didn't exist on the map. We road on for a bit and Geomunoreum snuck up on us. It was closed - how does an oreum close? Anyhow - we continued on to Sangumburi Crater. The whole place was incredibly built up. Ornate rock walls enclosed equally ornate buildings - all of which proceeded a series of ramp up to the rim of the crater.
The crater itself was fantastic and a sign proudly detailed the numerous life forms inhabiting the abyss - it was a big sign. Even more beautiful than the crater was the view to the west. The sun was beginning to hang low in the sky and through the yellow dust we could see a number of oreums marching up towards Mt. Hallasan.
We continued on the 1112 until we hit the 1131, one the the major roads that connects Jeju and Seogwipo cities. We followed the road down from the mountain, out of the forest, and into Jeju City where we were met with considerably more traffic. We had just two remaining objectives: to meet up with my friends for a team dinner and to find a place to sleep. 
We had a great time with friends over shabu shabu before wandering the streets in search of a hotel. There was no middle-ground between classy joints and "love-motels" so we paid an couple of extra dollars to stay at the Nolbelees. Then we slept.
